Tracing the origins of Sashiko is challenging, as it evolved from everyday stitching practices that date back centuries. The earliest documented mention of “Sashiko” is from around 400 years ago in the Edo period, describing the stitching used on firefighters’ jackets. Yet, it’s likely that Japanese people practiced similar techniques long before, wherever and whenever stitching was needed to reinforce or mend fabric as a means of survival. In essence, the spirit of Sashiko existed wherever needles, thread, and fabric were used to prolong the life of materials.
As Japan ended its period of isolation and embraced Western industrial and economic ideals, many Japanese people became wealthier and no longer needed to stitch for survival. Fabric became more accessible, and people opted to replace items rather than repair them. Just as we have replaced washing boards with washing machines, the need for labor-intensive stitching declined. The practical, everyday use of Sashiko gradually faded, and by the Meiji period, as Japan’s economic circumstances improved, Sashiko evolved into something practiced more by choice than necessity.
The Mid-Showa Revival and Industrialization of Sashiko
After World War II, Japan experienced rapid economic growth, and many people began to rediscover Sashiko fabrics and stories from their past. This led to a revival of Sashiko around the 1960s, as people sought to reconnect with traditional crafts. Sashiko practitioners like Master Yoshida Eiko, who founded “Asanoha Kai,” and my grandmother, who revived Hida Sashiko, played key roles in preserving these traditions.
During this period, regional Sashiko revivals often included names reflecting local origins, such as “○○ Sashiko.” Some avoided the harsher look of kanji and used hiragana, as my grandmother did with “Hida Sashiko.” With Sashiko gaining recognition, artisans adapted it as an industry to make it sustainable. This craft, once practiced for family and community, transformed into a commercial enterprise.
Industrializing Sashiko required certain conditions:
- The ability to produce items on a larger scale.
- Knowledge and skills to enable easier reproduction.
- Access to affordable, quality materials and tools.
As Sashiko products became available, pre-printed fabrics, thread kits, and a variety of tools entered the market. Advances in thread manufacturing enabled mass production, while affordable options, like towel sets, became popular. Between the late Showa and Heisei periods, figures like Ginza Akie and Hida Sashiko were influential in this industrialization (*1). Although Hida Sashiko eventually declined, “Ginza Akie Sashiko no Mise” continues today through apprentices who carry on her legacy (*2).
(*1) Many artisans across Japan continue to produce Sashiko works. Ginza Akie and Hida Sashiko are examples of successful industrialization.(*2) Hida Sashiko’s decline and Ginza Akie’s success may be due to her willingness to train apprentices who now manage her shop. Unfortunately, no former Hida Sashiko artisans expanded the business commercially.
Sashiko in Modern Japan and Beyond
With Sashiko's popularity rising, specialized Sashiko companies could no longer meet demand. While these companies were highly skilled, they lacked the resources of major textile companies and large craft retailers, leading to a mutually beneficial relationship rather than competition. Today, few practice Sashiko as “fabric reinforcement and repair.” Japan’s prosperity has created a society where people no longer stitch out of necessity. Sashiko now serves new purposes, including as a “cute craft” or a source of relaxation and purpose.
Modern Japanese Sashiko often consists of intricate, colorful embroidery on white fabric. Many recent Sashiko books in Japan focus on Sashiko as a “cute craft” or “design to brighten life.” In contrast, the English-speaking world has embraced Sashiko as a form of sustainable needlework. While I am glad Sashiko supports sustainable practices, I often find its role embellished, straying from its roots. This is why I focus on sharing accurate information in English, ensuring Sashiko’s Japanese heritage is honored.
Understanding Sashiko’s Changing Definition
A straightforward answer to “What is Sashiko?” is difficult because it depends on the era. Sashiko practiced as a craft and Sashiko used to protect children from the cold lie on the same continuum, differing only in context. As Sashiko continues to evolve, I hope this transformation respects its origins, preserving the threads that connect past, present, and future.